by Arianna Kemis
Havana, Cuba
“I was four years old,” he had said. “I listened to music,
and I felt it.”
I never knew that amidst the waving jungle trees and clucks
of Cuba’s national bird, the tocororo, I would find a story of music and a
lifestyle that epitomizes the struggle of life and love in Cuba.
There, listening to his performing group, I met Junior
Santana, a 30-year-old saxophone player and lifelong citizen of Cuba. He was
intrigued by why I came to Cuba, and I videoed him as he played
enthusiastically for our group.
But Junior’s energy became quieter and more somber as I
asked him in Spanish about his love for music. How did you come to play the
saxophone? I asked him. I didn’t suspect I would get a life story over the next
several days. Junior smiling for a spontaneous photograph at an intersection in Havana. |
“My father played guitar and sang in some group,” Junior
said in mixed Spanish and English, trying to practice as he walked next to me
along the tree-lined Paseo del Prado
toward the capitol building. “It’s what I was used to.”
He told me about the happy years, when he was nine or ten,
when he began to study music at La Escuela Vocacional de Arte (EVA). He soon
became the best in his class.
Then his smile faded into a sad, serious stare up toward the
capitol building. Its scaffolding, an icon of the endless reconstruction
project that is Cuba, tried desperately to blend in with the fading sky.
The capitol building of Havana: an icon of Cuba's endless reconstruction. |
“Later,” he said, “in our country, many families like my
family, we have trouble for money, food.”
Junior paused. He was referring to the Special Period of the
early 1990’s when the Soviet Union fell and the financial support stopped coming into Cuba, throwing the people
into despair and harsh economic conditions. Ironically, we passed a man who was
crushing pop cans on the sidewalk to earn money for recycling.
“Sometimes, I know we slept without eating,” he said
quietly. “You know? Like the time in World War II?”
In Spanish, he tried harder to describe the feelings of pain
he endured, comparing it to the torture some Jews had to withstand during the
Holocaust. He hesitated doing this, not sure whether it was accurate, but he
tried to build a connection in order for me to understand.
“My mother worked a lot for me and my three brothers, and it
was very difficult,” Junior said. ”I fought everyday because I wanted to study.
I wanted to play.”
Ultimately, Junior had to choose between music and his
family. He quit his music school and went to a basic public school to help the
family save money.
Years passed slowly, and when he was 17, he finally got
another opportunity. He reentered EVA and got the chance to sing.
“Music was in my life again,” he said with a small,
reminiscent smile.
Since those years, though, musicians in Cuba have found it
increasingly difficult to make a living. Companies do not allow their artists to work other gigs to subsidize their
earnings, and no missed performances are paid for. Tourists’ tips are the
majority of what groups earn, but sometimes, they do not tip much.
We stopped walking, now out on the Malecón, a 4-mile-long cement couch (or so it seemed) that stretches along
Havana’s northern coastline, guarding its streets from the crashing sea.
That year, when Junior was 17, his twin brother committed
suicide. His family still has no idea why. Fortunately, he explained, music helped
ease the problems of life and provided opportunities to keep smiling.
“When I was 20, I started to study the saxophone,” he said,
striding more confidently amidst the sea spray. “I remember my first sax was a
soprano.”
He reminded me of the man we saw crushing cans. That is what
Junior did. With great emotion, he told me how he crushed cans to donate to the
recycling plant to earn money. To my surprise, however, he did not use that
money to buy a saxophone.
Instead, he bought a pig.
“Why?” I asked, wondering how buying a pig would get a
saxophone. Yet, he found one, and raised it for 6 months in his aunt’s tiny
backyard.
Junior became childish in his impression he made of his aunt
as she walked out with a bucket of food for the pig, which they had
affectionately named “Saxophone.”
Then, he sold Saxophone to buy the real thing.
“There wasn’t much money from it,” he told me. “For a
moment, I thought I couldn’t.”
But ten years later, he has a new saxophone that he has been
playing for two months.
The street outside the hotel, where I saw Junior for the last time. |
We were sitting in the hotel lobby at that point, and an
instrumental piece started playing over the radio in the background. Before I
could write down my last thought, Junior began to sing in a supremely beautiful
tenor voice, following the rhythm and implied lyrics of the song. My jaw
dropped. He was smiling, singing without hesitation in smooth English.
Then, as though nothing had happened, he turned back to me.
“Jazz is my favorite style,” he said simply. Not wanting to miss
another detail, I asked him why. He shrugged.
“You can improvise,” Junior said. “It’s what you feel in the
moment, every second of the song, of the universe.”
He leaned forward, looking at his hands as he tried to grab
the words to describe himself from the air.
“I feel like I’m the center of the universe in that moment,”
he said. “All the stars shine on me. They catch me. And more, my imagination
flies.”
When I said goodbye to Junior, I could not help but feel
somewhat distant, as though the music I heard was tainted with struggling
performers and the jovial rhythms were desperate attempts to stay energized and
survive.
Music is a part of the Cuban culture, so much that the word hobby does not apply. However, passion does.
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